S. Issad, M. Harder
Regeneration represents an evolution of sustainability, aiming not only to reduce negative impacts but to actively restore ecosystems while delivering benefits to human health. In cosmetics, this approach encourages the design of ingredients that connect agricultural practices to wellbeing. This article describes the development and evaluation of a linseed (Linum usitatissimum) oil concentrate cosmetic active ingredient, produced using Soil Conservation Agriculture methods, recognized as regenerative by the FAO (Food & Agriculture Organisation). The ingredient is obtained through a patented molecular distillation process, yielding a concentrate enriched in unsaponifiable compounds. Its biological activity was investigated using a comprehensive experimental program combining in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo models. Cellular studies on keratinocytes and fibroblasts, together with human skin explants and reconstructed aged skin models, were used to assess antioxidant properties, epidermal differentiation, dermo-epidermal junction integrity and markers associated with cellular longevity, including telomere protection. Clinical efficacy was evaluated in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study conducted in Caucasian female volunteers aged between 45 and 65 years. The results demonstrate a stimulation of ceramide synthesis, a decrease in transepidermal water loss and an improvement in skin microrelief and barrier-related parameters after 28 to 56 days of application.
