P. P. Dhawal, A. Mainkar, K. Vaze, S. Mhaskar
Objective: Turmeric, an ancient Indian Herb, has been explored extensively for its medicinal and cosmetic benefits, but its application is limited by the bioavailability and bright yellow colour of its bio-active: curcumin. Tetrahydrocurcumin (THC), a metabolite of curcumin is considered to be equally effective, exhibits better stability and bioavailability. In the current study, we explored the therapeutic potency of THC versus leading industry gold standards in personal care.
Methods: All the cosmetic actives were tested at 5% strength for antioxidant potential using DPPH and ORAC assays, skin brightening (anti-tyrosinase and melanin reduction in B16F10 mice melanoma cells) and anti-inflammatory action (reduction of IL-6 in LPS-induced PMA-treated THP-1 cells).
Results: THC showed higher antioxidant efficacy as compared to 3-o-ethyl l ascorbic acid (EAA), green tea extract (4X), and reduced glutathione. It also exhibited very strong tyrosinase inhibitory action as compared to EAA. It further reduced melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells with efficacy higher than kojic acid and EAA and equal as niacinamide. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation usually proceeds after inflammation or wounds and thus mitigating inflammation at an early stage becomes crucial. THC exhibited a potent anti-inflammatory effect by reducing the production of LPS-induced IL-6 levels. It showed potency higher than green tea, vitamin E, ascorbic acid, and niacinamide.
Conclusion: This study places THC on the top shelf of a cosmetologist’s inventory where the active qualifies as a stable, potent, and natural skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory ingredient. THC is a testament of India’s Ayurvedic legacy where ancient wisdom meets science to shape the future of skincare.
