Made in Kenya: Modern Natural Cosmetics with a Long Tradition
Interview with Tommaso Iser Menini,
Co-Founder and Managing Director of the African Agency for Arid Resources (Agar Limited) in Kenya
Your company, “African Agency for Arid Resources”, offers natural cosmetics. What makes your products special?
Our portfolio includes essential oils from frankincense and myrrh, gum arabic, baobab and moringa oil and powder, aloe powder and Nilotica shea butter. These products reflect the biodiversity of the arid and semi-arid ecosystems of Kenya and Uganda.
We can look back on a long tradition of using natural resources for cosmetic applications in Kenya. We draw on this tradition to manufacture our modern natural cosmetics in accordance with international quality standards. As our company name – ‘African Agency for Arid Resources’ – suggests, we process natural raw materials from areas with low rainfall and limited water availability. Certified supply chains provide transparent information about the origin of our raw materials.
What defines the “Made in Kenya” cosmetics tradition?
Centuries of using resins, oils and aloe-based remedies have shaped Kenya’s culture of natural cosmetics. These sustainably harvested ingredients still form the basis of our products today. This is a relatively new sector for high-end cosmetics, but several ‘Made in Kenya’ companies, such as our own brand ‘Jua by Agar’, are on the rise.
Frankincense (Boswellia neglecta) and sweet myrrh (Commiphora holtziana) are examples of characteristic essential oils from Kenya. They are used in skin care and perfumery for their soothing and regenerating characteristics. We started our company with these oils in 2018. Today, we control the entire value chain, from tree to bottle.
You also have baobab and moringa oil in your portfolio. What special characteristics do these oils have?
Baobab oil is light, rich in essential fatty acids and is quickly absorbed. It supports the repair of the skin barrier and adds shine. It is used in facial serums, conditioners and body oils. The fruit of the baobab tree is harvested to extract the oil. The seeds of the ripe fruit are then removed by hand. They are dried and then cold-pressed.
Moringa oil is a light, nutrient-rich oil that is cold-pressed from the seeds of the moringa tree. It is rich in oleic acid and vitamins A, C and E. The oil moisturises dry skin and makes it smooth, while also providing antioxidant protection: it neutralises free radicals and thus helps to slow down visible signs of skin ageing. It is valued for its stability and versatility in skin care, hair care and natural cosmetic formulations.
Where do you source your seeds and raw materials?
We source our seeds from farmers who are organised in networks and trained by us. We guarantee the quality of our raw materials through sorting, classification and laboratory testing. We maintain traceability logs that are checked by our teams on site and at our headquarters.
When sourcing raw materials, we combine wild collection, e.g. for baobab and moringa oil, with the cultivation of important species, e.g. Boswellia neglecta, Commiphora holtziana, aloe, etc. We draw on traditional greenhouse cultivation and field management, including corresponding training for our employees, to ensure good yields and consistently high quality.
In addition, we have launched a project called ‘Kavadi’ in which we plant commercially interesting trees such as neem, moringa, baobab, tamarind, Acacia senegal, Boswelia neglecta, Commiphora holtziana and croton in order to increase the production of natural ingredients for cosmetic products.
You also produce shea butter. What makes your product special?
Our shea butter is of the Nilotica type, which accounts for less than 10 per cent of the current global shea butter market. Compared to its West African counterpart, this East African type contains more omega-6 fatty acids and is richer in oleic and linoleic acids. Its texture is lighter and it has a more pleasant smell. This means it is very easily absorbed by the skin. The lower melting point also allows Nilotica shea butter to be processed more gently.
We offer our Nilotica shea butter unrefined in order to preserve its original characteristics. It is only filtered and stabilised to ensure its purity and texture.
What significance does the European market have for you?
Europe is an important strategic market for certified natural products. Our collaboration with the Import Promotion Desk (IPD) helps us to adapt our products to EU requirements, meet potential buyers and showcase the high-quality botanical potential of East Africa.
Further information:
https://www.importpromotiondesk.de/
© Picture Credits: Agar Kenya
