Interview with Sabrina Paltian, Sr. Application Technologist at Berg+Schmidt Solutions
Sabrina Paltian
Sr. Application Technologist at Berg+Schmidt Solutions
How does the Texture and Sensory Compass help cosmetic formulators?
Formulating cosmetic products is often a balancing act between technical functionality, marketing expectations, and the sensory experience that all users want. The Texture and Sensory Compass was developed to simplify this balancing act. It helps formulators navigate the wide range of textures and skin feel properties by offering a structured overview of different sensorial attributes.
The tool saves formulators time during the development process. With the Compass, they can see where each Berg+Schmidt emulsifier is positioned on the map. This allows them to quickly determine whether an emulsifier creates light, fast-absorbing textures or richer, more caring ones. This makes it easier to choose the right starting point and focus on what really fits the project.
What role does texture play in the development of personal care products – why is it worth delving deeper into this topic?
Texture is a key part of how we experience cosmetic products. It is often the first thing people notice when trying a product, and it plays a significant role in whether they like it. The way a product feels on the skin can say a lot about its quality and positioning. For instance, a silky texture is often associated with luxury, while a light, fresh feel is often associated with modernity or cleanliness.
From a formulator’s perspective, texture provides an opportunity to create products that cater to different skin types and needs. Some textures absorb quickly and are ideal for oily skin, while richer textures are better for dry or mature skin. Texture also matters in relation to climate and lifestyle. People in hot, humid regions want very different products from the ones people in colder areas prefer. Thus, texture is a way to personalize products and create solutions that fit consumers’ needs.
Social media has also made texture more visible. Products with surprising or fun textures are often shared more, attracting attention from influencers and users alike. This gives brands a chance to stand out and connect with consumers in a more emotional and playful way.
In short, texture is not just a technical detail. It is part of the full user experience, and is tied to emotions, expectations, and even memories. Understanding texture helps create products that people enjoy using and remember.
On our website we explain how the Texture & Sensory Compass works. It provides you with clear examples of how each of our emulsifiers contributes to different sensations. You can compare textures side by side and determine early on which texture best fits your product.
What data or expertise is behind the tool?
The Compass is based on in-house sensory testing, formulation experience, and careful laboratory work. We evaluated a wide range of emulsifier-based formulations through an in-house sensory panel, and conducted three-month stability tests to check viscosity, appearance, scent, and pH. Therefore, the textures on the map are based on stable, well-tested systems.
One key principle is increasing the oil phase from milks to lotions, creams, and butters, which influences the skin feel. For milks we often use mainly emulsifiers and occasionally gelling agents. For lotions and creams we add fatty alcohols to increase viscosity. In butters, rich plant-based ingredients such as shea butter create a dense, nourishing texture. These choices helped us define distinct texture areas on the sensory map.
Additionally, for a recent master’s thesis a method using an oscillatory rheometer was developed. We now use this method to generate more precise data for the Compass. This technique has already helped us better classify formulations and will continue to improve the tool’s accuracy.
How does the Texture and Sensory Compass help keep up with consumer sensory demands when it comes to cosmetics?
One challenge in formulation today is keeping up with rapidly changing consumer preferences. What feels light or fresh to one generation or region may be very different from what feels light or fresh to another. This is where the Compass comes in handy. It connects vague sensory preferences with specific formulation ideas.
For instance, if your marketing team wants a cream that feels airy and not sticky, or a serum that glides smoothly and absorbs quickly, the Compass can transform these desires into specific sensory targets. We then use these targets to select the right ingredients and design the product system. Since the tool is based on many tested formulations, it provides a realistic starting point. This saves time and increases the likelihood that the product will meet expectations right away.
What are some trends you see consumers want in terms of sensory qualities or textures?
Currently, consumers clearly prefer lightweight, fast-absorbing textures, particularly for facial skincare products. They want products that feel efficient and leave their skin feeling fresh, without any sticky or greasy residue.
At the same time, interest in sensory and transformative textures is growing. Examples include balm-to-oil products, milky gels, and creams that leave a soft, velvety finish. These products offer a unique experience, and appeal to those seeking something more luxurious.
Our Texture and Sensory Compass addresses these trends with Berg + Schmidt emulsifier-based formulations. BergaMuls ET1, for example, is ideal for creating light textures, and BergaMuls ET2 works well for gel-creams. The Compass maps these textures and helps formulators choose ingredients that meet current consumer demands. This practical guidance is one of its main strengths.
Where can you try out the tool and learn more about it?
The Compass is an interactive tool that is freely available on our website at https://solutions.berg-schmidt.com/careingredients/, where you can also explore all the featured formulations. We offer online training sessions for our partners and customers to help them get the most out of the tool. Our dedicated sales team is always happy to arrange on-site presentations and tailored demonstrations to meet individual needs. Additionally, we actively participate in major industry trade fairs and are looking forward to sharing insights on this topic during our upcoming presentation at SEPAWA.
