A Bioactive Extract Surpassing Industry Standards for Dandruff Treatment
Interview with Giada Maramaldi,
Global Category Manager, Botanical Actives at Givaudan Active Beauty
What makes DandErase™ a revolutionary solution in the anti-dandruff market compared to traditional treatments like zinc pyrithione or ketoconazole?
DandErase™ stands out as a revolutionary solution on the anti-dandruff market for several compelling reasons. When tackling dandruff, its efficacy is as good as the synthetic molecules you mentioned; it reduces dandruff by up to 95% in two washes and was found to be active on 100% of the testing panel. It offers long-lasting efficacy that is maintained even after two weeks of use discontinuation, unlike traditional treatments which often exhibit a rebound effect. It effectively inhibits Malassezia growth, comparable to benchmarks like climbazole, ketoconazole, and piroctone olamine, but at the same time guarantees a stable balance of the scalp microbiome. Additionally, it is multifunctional: DandErase™ promotes the balance of pro- and anti-inflammatory cytokines, indicating its soothing activity, which traditional treatments may not offer. It reduces itching associated with dandruff, by reducing histamine release linked to a newly identified itch receptor. Furthermore, DandErase™ enhances well-being by promoting relaxation, happiness, and mindfulness, which is a unique advantage over traditional treatments – this has been validated with two neuroscientific technologies: Mood Portraits™ (Givaudan’s proprietary method) and Igonogo.
Additionally, Malassezia is less likely to develop anti-fungal resistance to DandErase™ when compared with pure molecules thanks to its phytocomplex.
In summary, DandErase™ is a multifunctional anti-dandruff solution offering long-lasting efficacy, anti-inflammatory and anti-itch benefits, as well as effective inhibition of Malassezia growth, and enhancements in overall well-being, making it a superior choice in the anti-dandruff market.
Could you elaborate on how DandErase™ simultaneously addresses both the root causes and visible symptoms of dandruff?
DandErase™ addresses dandruff through a multi-faceted approach targeting both root causes and visible symptoms. It effectively inhibits the growth of Malassezia species – primary contributors to dandruff – by disrupting the fungal cell membrane and depolarising the mitochondrial membrane, leading to reduced proliferation.
Clinical trials have demonstrated a significant reduction in dandruff and erythema. DandErase™ also mitigates itching by reducing histamine via the MRGPRX2 receptor, restores skin/scalp barrier function disrupted by Malassezia by normalising desmoglein-1 expression, and balances the microbiome by targeting Malassezia without affecting beneficial bacteria. These mechanisms ensure long-lasting benefits, even after discontinuing use.
How does DandErase™ achieve lasting effects even after treatment ends? What is the role of the Interabiome in this process?
DandErase™ achieves long-lasting effects by stabilising the scalp microbiome through the concept of Interabiome balance, which minimises key imbalance parameters such as strain interdependence and forced collaborations. This stabilisation ensures that disruption of one strain does not compromise others, leading to a more stable and resilient microbiome. DandErase™ targets Malassezia, reducing its overall abundance without altering the balance of other bacterial species. Clinical studies have shown significant reductions in dandruff and erythema, with effects continuing even after discontinuation of the treatment, attributed to the rebalancing of the Interabiome.
It also received a score of ‘A’ (the highest score) according to the B‑Biome™ Score standard, a measure of ‘microbiome friendliness’ developed by Givaudan Active Beauty in collaboration with dermatologists.
Can you explain what Green Fractionation is and how it was used to extract the active molecule from Crocus sativus petals?
Green Fractionation represents Givaudan’s full capabilities in terms of plant extraction methods. It allows for the characterisation and isolation of active molecules, using environmentally friendly techniques and circular beauty criteria. It involves rapid fractionation using Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC) and analysis using Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) spectroscopy to identify and characterise bioactive compounds. This method ensures the efficient and eco-friendly isolation of potent phytocomplexes, such as kinsenoside, present in DandErase™, and only previously described in a rare type of orchid. Green Fractionation supports circular beauty by promoting sustainability and reducing environmental impact.
What makes Moroccan saffron a particularly valuable source for this botanical active?
Morocco is one of the world’s leading producers of saffron, and this precious and delicate supply chain is carefully mastered in different regions of the country. In fact, Moroccan saffron is precious because of its unique cultivation process, high yield of bioactive compounds, and sustainable practices. It generates significant floral bio-residues, which are used with DandErase™ as part of a circular economy approach, reducing waste and enhancing economic value. Petals contain flavonoid compounds and unique molecules such as kinsenoside and goodyeroside A, with potential biological activities. Sustainable production practices include natural drying and hot water extraction, resulting in a minimal environmental footprint. Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) further confirms its minimal environmental impact, making Moroccan saffron a valuable source of active botanical ingredients.
Is DandErase™ suitable for all hair types and formulations (e.g., shampoos, leave-in treatments, scalp serums)?
DandErase™ is suitable for all hair types and various formulations, including shampoos, leave-in treatments, and scalp serums. It can be used in dosages of up to 3% in final hair care products, encompassing hair and scalp care, shampoos, rinse-off and leave-in lotions. Its effectiveness in reducing dandruff and maintaining efficacy post-treatment confirm its versatility. S3D® Terralogy, the exclusive concept developed by the Givaudan Active Beauty formulation laboratory, features a scalp serum as pre-wash.
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